candids by Jo » a lifestyle blog that centers on food, travel and leading a creative life.

Unraveling the secrets of Venice

We were hurtling down the Grand Canal to the Westin Europa & Regina hotel in a water taxi with its small flag of Italy whipping in the wind. I wondered if the driver can go any faster because it’s well past noon, lunch was awaiting, and travel has a way of stirring up my appetite. As we breezed past the Doge’s Palace, romantic in its light pink marble and white limestone walls, and the Santa Maria della Salute loomed closer it finally sank in: Venice! My initial priorities were misplaced, forget speeding up, everything needed to slow in pace so we, my travelmates and I, could take in this old, inimitable floating city.
Venice Grand Canal view from Rialto bridgepintopinterestVenice_Bridge_of_sighs_scenepintopinterestIn two days we crossed countless bridges (of which in total there are 400 of them) and wove through tight alleyways, in rain and shine, to seek out the whispered secrets of Venice. Visits to 19th century private gardens tucked behind canals, the sight of abundant laundry fluttering on clotheslines that connected buildings in the narrow Castello streets and treading on elevated pathways diligently set out for aqua alto (high tide) were just some of what we experienced. Already it’s a different adventure to my last visit to Venice, just how much more to the city is there?

Ventian masks photopintopinterest

Venice is often referred to as the “Floating City” but is also known as the “City of Masks”

I was on a press trip hosted by Westin Europa & Regina to experience two tours they offer hotel guests: personal food shopper & secret gardens tour. Joined by Edd Kimber, Giulia Mule and Kit Lee we peeked into a more intimate side to Venice.Venice canal scene photopintopinterest

Venice street laundry hung to dry photopintopinterest

One would think it’s laundry day in the Castello sestiere (district) but clean laundry hung out to dry on clothing lines is a typical sight in the neighborhood.

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Venetian laundry alleypintopinterest

Giulia and I roamed to Castello, away from the thick crowds of tourists. It didn’t take long for us to resolve to pack up and move to Venice one of these days.

Where to eat in venice

Venice is not generally known for its cuisine. In reputation cicchetti is more like the poor cousin to Spanish tapas, both served bite sized on top of a small piece of bread. But when guided by those in the know one can eat happily and heartily, we certainly did! Venice ciccheti barpintopinterest1. Osteria BancogiroCampo San Giacometto, 122, 30125 Rialto
We were drying off from the intermittent rain during the Westin food shopper tour in this small restaurant/bar situated in the square that once was the financial center of Venice in the 1500s. Our local guide led us to the small selection of cicchetti lined in a glass case ready for immediate gratification. Black squid ink polenta topped with a whipped baccalà mantecato (dried cod) and curry coated shrimp looked too interesting to not order. Dense, creamy and lightly colored with curry, I consumed quickly and wondered how soon was too soon to order another without drawing attention to my wolfish tendencies.

Pouring prosecco at Osteria Bancogiro Venice photopintopinterest

It was at Osteria Bancogiro where I realized that cicchetti is best paired with prosecco. Perhaps everything pairs well with prosecco.

2. Cantine del Vino Gia SciaviFondamenta Nani, 992, Dorsoduro
In contrast to Osteria Bancogiro, this bacari serves the more traditional of Venetian fare and offers a good selection to choose from. Baccalà mantecato on bread comes topped with salmon roe, another comes with sliced egg on bread with marinated mushroom and a hint of truffle oil, and then there’s the octopus on with greens on bread. It’s cicchetti heaven in here. There is no seating available so be prepared to stand while devouring the small treats. It’s so good, you really won’t mind.

The views available are also a treat in itself, on the one side you can catch a lively San Giacometto Square, on the other is that of a canal.

3. Enoiteca MascaretaCalle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, 5183, Sestiere
Here you’ll encounter an unusual collector of sorts who is usually in a bow tie and dons different colored All Star shoes. Mauro Lorenzon is the endearing proprietor of Enoiteca Mascareta, a restaurant and wine bar that is often fully booked. It’s not just the food you go for – though I found their light baccalà mantecato extra decadent – it’s the ambience that will leave you with the fondest memories. Before I even understood why, I took Mauro’s lead and pressed my ears to the open mouth of my wine glass, the better to hear the soft secrets it was whispering I assume? When the bowl of mussels arrived we ditched the forks and picked the meat from the shell of another mussel as advised by Mauro. “This is the Venetian way,” he said.

One wall is lined with bottles of wine, another hangs different sketches of Mauro along with a small collection of hanging bow ties while the bar area boasts a row of his ongoing gin collection. Booking ahead for dinner is strongly advised.

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Mauro cooking our risotto in a gorgeous copper pot.He substituted cheese & butter with rice flour & salt for anchovies sauce.

Empty wine glasses after a fun evening photopintopinterest

The sign of a good evening

Man giving a thumbs up in Venice photopintopinterestVenice at night, bridge photopintopinterest

Shopping in Venice

I rarely shop when I travel but even I couldn’t resist picking up a few treats along the way during the four hour Westin food shopper tour. Our local food expert led us to some of her favorite shops and market stalls while offering color into Venetian life. It was at Enoteca Mascari where we crammed into the small shop that boasts over 1,000 bottles of wines, of which 600 originates from Italy, spices, chocolates, biscuits and specialty local jams. The subtly sweet quince mustard (mostarda) she introduced us to was the perfect partner to the chunk of friulano cheese I greedily bought from Casa del Parmigiano initially to share with the Brit but devoured on my own within a day.

Venice Casa del Parmigiano food store photopintopinterest

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Santin by the Rialto market is our Westin food shopper guide’s top pick for the area’s best fruits and vegetables. “The pricing is at a premium but so isn’t the quality.”

Red Chilli Peppers, Rialto Market Venicepintopinterest

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At the Rialto fish market: the fishermen of Venice have a saying, “Fish has 24 virtues and loses one every hour.”

What to see: Venetian secret gardens

Did you know there are over 500 gardens in Venice? Most of them are private, hidden behind the gates of palazzos, which seems a shame since the micro climate of the city makes it particularly conducive to successfully growing plant-life. Our Westin secret gardens tour was led by Mariagrazia Dammico, author of Venetian Gardens. She held the golden key for our access to two private gardens that afternoon: the Palazzo Nani Bernando and Fortuny showroom in Guidecca.

Venice palazzo wall covered with leaves photopintopinterest

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Canal entrance into Palazzo Nani Bernando which was built in the 16th century. A tour within the palazzo reveals views of elaborate Venetian furnishings, a secret doorway and overlooks a symmetrical garden.

Venice palazzo secret garden, Palazzo Nani Bernandopintopinterest

The Palazzo Nani Bernando’s 100 foot long symmetrical garden houses the tallest palm tree in Venice

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Details from Palazzo Nani Bernando

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Once you venture further into the garden at Palazzo Nani Bernando try to see if you can spot the roaming turtle

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Fruit tree at the Fortuny showroom private garden which also has the only inground pool on the island!

Hiding from the rainpintopinterest

Crew happy even when hiding from the rain

A typical Westin secret garden tour would take guests to 2-3 garden visits depending on the pace of the guests and their preferences. We visited two gardens at a very leisurely place by foot and via water taxi. The rain also slowed us a down a little bit but did not dampen our spirits!

Where to stay in Venice

Westin Europa & Regina, San Marco 2159 · Venice, 30124
 I couldn’t help but be entranced by the elegance and grandness of the Westin Europa & Regina hotel, even for someone who typically prefers smaller boutiques. For two mornings, I woke up to the hums of canal life and a view of the Santa Maria della Salute that always inevitably led to a sigh. It’s a charmed life here in room #110.

Westin Europa Regina Venice canal view photopintopinterestWestin Europa Regina deluxe room photopintopinterestWestin_Venice_hotel-deluxe_roompintopinterestIf their trademarked bed wasn’t so comfortable I would have loved to get up early and try the Westin gear lending program where for just £5 for the duration of your hotel stay, you can rent New Balance workout garments & sneakers to exercise in! I love the sound of this program since packing sneakers always takes up so much luggage space. But while I didn’t get to take advantage of their other offering I made up for with the delights of room service.Westin_Venice_room_service_parma_ham_melonpintopinterestChef_Alberto_Fol_Westin_Venicepintopinterestseafood tagliatelle Westin Venice room service photopintopinterest

Arrivederci Venizia, it’s been a dream! Maybe let’s try without the rain next time though…Venice rain puddle aqua alta photopintopinterestVenice at high tide, aqua alta photopintopinterestVenice_Cafe_Florian photopintopinterestParked gondolas in Venice photopintopinterest

Note: I was a guest of the Westin Europa & Regina hotel. All views are my own.

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  • Great photos. I am yet to visit Venice and this definitely makes me want to go!ReplyCancel

    • candidsbyjo

      You must! It’s barely even a 2 hour flight from London to Venice and the city is just unlike any other.ReplyCancel

  • Oh Jo, it is all so pretty it makes me want to jump straight back on a plane. Even with the rain. That picture of the man “thumbs-upping” the photo is priceless. So happy that you had such a fantastic trip.ReplyCancel

    • candidsbyjo

      He was so cute! I was trying to take a picture of him intensely reading his newspaper. Somebody must have beat me to it then showed him the photo.ReplyCancel

  • Sarah

    Your photos are so beautiful! I want to go to Venice so badly!ReplyCancel

    • candidsbyjo

      Thanks Sarah. I hope you can make it into your travel plans soon!ReplyCancel

  • I want melon and parma ham now! What gorgeous shots!ReplyCancel

  • ChicagoRed

    Sigh… Wanderlust activated early on a Monday morning.ReplyCancel

  • Great photos! I’ve been to Venice several times, it’s a great place especially in the low season when it’s not crowded!ReplyCancel

    • candidsbyjo

      Thanks! It must be feel like you have the whole city yourself once the crowds are gone. I loved that about Castello, it was really light on foot traffic there.ReplyCancel

  • Love your photos! So happy to have connected via Jess 🙂 Venice is absolutely one of my favorite cities, it feels like a second home to me (after Paris, of course). I would recommend my favorite little local deli there, with the nicest Venetian family who has taken us in, but unfortunately they’re selling the place as their local clientele are dying out — the cons of the growing tourism population 🙁ReplyCancel

    • candidsbyjo

      Shame to hear about the local deli in Venice but at least you were able to have enjoyed it on your travels! Really glad to have been introduced to you via Jess & am loving your expat adventures 🙂ReplyCancel

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