Epicurean journey Greece: Santorini

View of Fira, Santorini at sunset photo

On the 65th day of August we sat in a candlelit cellar that served as a winery cave 400 years earlier and tasted a flight of wines from grapes cultivated out of volcanic soil. Any calendar might have indicated it was early October but on that arid Greek island the summer heat lingered far longer.

I savored the cooling taste of a lemony finish from the Assyrtiko and caught the pineapple notes of the Katsano, both made from white grapes, while scrawling furiously about the unique nature of wine in Santorini. Athanasia, the resident oenophile at Canava Wine Bar, who is as rigid as she is passionate, peppered us with juicy wine facts. In Greece wine is made to pair with food; that much is apparent when I was initially put off by the metallic taste from a sip of the Aidani then won over once I tried it with graviera cheese from Crete. We heard how the island’s high humidity (reaching 85%!) contributes the main source of water for vines and how the absence of clay in the volcanic soil saved Santorini from phylloxera, the disease that devastated many European vineyards in the 1800s. As the sun was setting we learned that buried somewhere under the Aegean Sea were liquid treasures, bottles of Assyrtiko aging under prime conditions.

Santorini wine tasting photo

In Santorini 12,000 acres of land are dedicated to white varieties versus 1,000 acres for red.

Wine cave in Santorini photo

Santorini: more than just a pretty face

Of the five destinations I visited in Greece for The Luxury Collection’s Epicurean Journey project Santorini was the one that I was most nervous about. Over the years I’ve seen my fair share of honeymoon in Santorini Facebook albums from friends. All the stories I have listened to and articles I read pressed upon me just how breathtaking it is. But could the crescent-shaped island live up to its glowing reputation in real life when expectations are already so high?

It did not take long to realize that not only were my fears unfounded I recognized that Santorini is much more than just a pretty face and had plenty to offer.oia-windmill-pretty-santorini-landscape travel photography

Former Venetian castle mansion in Santorini photo

We learned about Santorini’s Venetian past when we were guided into Emporio, a small village with a medieval Venetian castle. It is like a maze inside and now holds several apartments and a well preserved church.

Emborion Santorini locals photo

Beaches of Santorini photo

The geology of Santorini is quite colorful. You can find beaches with white, black and red sand around the island.

Determined to avoid crowds of tourists I set out for a sunrise stroll in Oia, the most photographed town in Santorini, with my friend Jess who joined me and assisted on this leg of the trip. Our forty-five minute drive from Megalochori, a small village dotted with vineyards at the southern end of the island, was quiet and unremarkable. Absent from the photos I’ve seen of Santorini are the half built structures stranded in between villages and empty rugged land that is a stark contrast to the densely populated, whitewashed buildings resting on the caldera cliffs. But when we arrived into Oia we were stunned into silence.Oia, Santorini at sunrise photooia-santorini-sunrise-landscape photoMisty Santorini photooia-santorini-alleys photooia-santorini-atlantis-books photo

A milky mist rolled in as we made our way to Mystique Hotel for a breakfast photoshoot. I tried hard, and failed immediately, not to be too impressed with the cream colored complex that has been seamlessly carved onto the crater. And it would soon be apparent that the unique nature of Santorini does not just rest in its topography.

View of the Luxury Collection's Mystique Hotel photomystique-hotel-oia-view photoOia Santorini photo

Food & wine in Santorini

I never pegged this honeymooner’s paradise to be a culinary destination until I tried a deep red and robustly sweet cherry tomato at Vedema Resort in Megalochori. It made for a playful bite when combined with plump capers, another local specialty. In the kitchen we joined Chef Melina Chomata for a photoshoot of dishes from Alati Restaurant. Soft spoken and a tad shy she confidently went to task on an octopus carpaccio with a native smoked white eggplant salad, grilled salmon topped with cherry tomatoes in a light yogurt sauce along with an amberjack ceviche roasted in lemon juice and red peppers. The chef takes on a farm to table approach and sources what she can from local producers. A seafood lunch feast at Vedema’s Pergola Pool Restaurant made an even bigger fan out of me for Chef Melina’s flavors, especially the grilled lobster tossed with spaghetti & cherry tomatoes – so good that I ordered it twice during my stay. alati-vedema-hotel-santorini-cooking-class photo

Vedema chef in the kitchen photo

Chef Melina Chomata at Vedema’s Alati Restaurant kitchen

alati-restaurant-vedema-hotel-santorini photo

Poolside dining at Vedema Resort photo

Poolside dining at Vedema Resort

Poolside seafood lunch at Vedema Hotel in Santorini photo

On our day off from photoshoots Jess and I had the option to roam around Fira (and chase donkeys) or relax by the pool at Vedema. We chose the latter which I’m thankful for. In addition to an epic lunch we were able to soak up the amenities of the resort. I appreciated how quiet, comfortable and casual the atmosphere was.

Dinner by candelight at Alati Restaurant photo

Dinner at Alati Restaurant by candlelight. Alati means salt in Greek.

alati-vedema-hotel-santorini-dinner photo

That chunky lobster risotto was boss

Where else can you find old vines trained to coil into the shape of a basket with no bottom? On a visit to Gavalas Winery, a neighbor of Vedema’s with a 300-year old history, I first noticed the stark naked vines and mistook it for an extra large Grecian headpiece. Instead of on trellises winemakers in Santorini grow their grapes tucked into coiled vines. Harvest season had already passed in October but a walk around Megalochori one morning rewarded us with a scene of three men stooped over and working the open field and an idle donkey observing by the wayside; the vines resting on the ground with leaves gleaming a golden green.

Wine tasting at Gavalas Winery in Santorini photo

Gavalas Winery offers tastings for an affordable euro or two per glass. Their vinsanto is made from a 7th century recipe using 22 kilos of grapes for 1 bottle of vinsanto vs 1 kilo of grapes for a regular bottle of white wine.

Megalachori vineyard Santorini photo

Spot the idle donkey

Megalochori six bell tower and vineyard photo

Megalochori does not get the hype (or foot traffic) of Fira or Oia but is well worth the visit for its sprawling vineyards, cute tavernas and six bells tower.

Back in the Canava Wine Bar for the wine tasting with Athanasia I discovered a love for vinsanto, a dessert wine named by the Venetians when Santorini was under their rule. Though ruby in colour vinsanto is made from sundried white grapes. Unlike the other Greek wines where the winemaking method has undergone a more modern process the grapes for vinsanto are still crushed by foot. It tasted like the elixir of love: light yet luxurious.

Santorini bridal photoshoot

It is common to walk around Santorini and find someone standing on a ledge. We must have seen at least five pairs of brides and grooms posing for photographs during sun set but this was the only lady in red.

And on my last evening in Santorini I held on to one final truth, vinsanto could never taste as sweet as it did as when we sat on the rim of an active volcano in time to see the sun take a bow for the day.


Thanks for the photo @JessOnThames!

For other stories on my epicurean journey in Greece click on these links: Athens & Crete.

Note: I was a guest of Vedema Resort and worked in collaboration with The Luxury Collection for this piece.

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